November 14, 2013
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Cate Blanchett in Elizabeth:The Golden Age,costumes designed by Alexandra Byrne,2007
The entire leaf of this folding fan is illustrated with precise figures of Rococo period courtiers relaxing in a garden. The ivory sticks are decorated with elaborate open-work and silver and gold decoration. This fan provides proof of the high quality of craftwork in the period.
Traditional Chinese round fans were introduced to ancient Japan, and folding fans were produced in Japan by tying wooden slats together. Foldable fans with a sheet of paper on one side were then introduced to China from Japan at the end of the Heian period (the twelfth century). They triggered the emergence of Chinese fans with sheets of paper on both sides of the fan, which was made of sandalwood or ivory decorated with gold and silver. It was around the 15th or 16th century that fans were introduced to the West through trading between Europe and Oriental countries. Manufacturing of fans in Europe started in the 17th century, mainly in Paris, and spread throughout Europe in the 18th century.
Dress (robe à l’anglaise)
The dress on the left is china silk of hand painted with a floral pattern, and on the right is a modestly striped silk taffeta, showing the lightness favored in this period. As for these dresses, it is also possible to wear as robe à la Polonaise style, with the skirt pulled up by cord.
Throughout the18th century, the composition of women’s dress did not change basically, the most important point was the trimming. Especially after the 1770s, the trimming increased in importance, and “marchands de mode” were an active force. In the latter half of the 18th century, these merchants were responsible for producing and selling trimmings from head to toe, including headdresses. They gave full rein to their imaginations when decorating dresses, creating headpieces, and in the end became powerful trend setters of the time.
New looks for sons of Magnificent Suleiman from new season scene. You can easily see and figure out what Ottoman man’s wore at the 16th century if you compare each photos. Costumes are perfect match with that century except one thing. Sleeve construction doesn’t compatible with 16th century ottoman sleeve consturction. It shouldn’t have done attached sleeve. This construction came to Ottoman at 19th century.
Perhaps some of you wonder why their costumes are not posh. Consider of Ottoman man, one men wore more posh, more luxury for clothes. Of course this men is Ottoman Emperor. Because he is the symbol of Ottoman’s power and prosperity. If sons wore more luxury clothes or accessories, Emperor would have taught sons saw themselves equal with him! Believe me this was really big problem for sons.
Ottoman Kaftan is from Topkapi Palace Istanbul
my great grandpa’s vintage measuring tape -19th century.
** Revised post.( Added something about costume history information about Ottoman woman)**
Finally my favorite Turkish tv historical series Magnificent of Century started yesterday. Costumes are amazing as usual. But unfortunately, this will be last season for them.
l’m so excited. Let’s begin to talk about costume of Hurrem Sultan. According to past time, she’s so powerful and invincible at this season. She gets her power from his husband Ottoman Empire Magnificent Suleiman. Because she is his favorite, master and legal wife. She’s very special for him.
In this scene, she swears to take revenge of his son. His son Sultan Mehmet killed by other women of Sultan Suleiman. Because of this reason costume designer focused on Hurrem’s dark side and l think that’s why he used purple color stiff fabric for her costume. We see more gold embroidered details on straps and neck shape for her costume. Embroidery was the most usable details on Ottomans clothes through all period of Ottoman Empire. Generally, they used leaves, flower, arabic letter etc. embroidery pattern on their fabric. Unfortunately Turks have no exact Ottoman woman costume records from 16th century. We see Ottoman woman costumes from Ottoman miniature 1700’s. According to above women miniature photo, we figure out body forms of the costume of this series is not actual shape of this 16th century. Because, in this period there was no attached sleeve details. This details became popular in 19th century. Also neck shape is not like that. But since it’s series and screen play, l think it may not a big deal!
Other criticize is for her crown. None of the Ottomans sultans didn’t wear crown through all period of Ottoman Empire.
They used head dress like a helmet with veil. This helmet is generally tall and highly decorated by precious stones, feathers etc. It was beautifully simple in its construction.
When we looked at the history, we see crown accessory on European royal family.
>Ottoman women miniature photo from Topkapi Palace- Istanbul
( This is from an Ottoman master Levni, a miniature about 1710-20 during the Tulip Period.)